Wrath King Bradley Sword wireframe, with the writing Prints Focian, Final, Full Metal Alchemist

Introduction

 

Welcome! In this build guide, I’ll be walking you through the process I took in making a 3D printed sword, modelled by me, and inspired by one used by King Bradley / Wrath in Full Metal Alchemist.

 

This will be an intensive look at the Final version of this project from start to finish. It doesn’t matter if you’re looking for guidance with a Build Kit, thinking to Print It Yourself or just curious to see the project: You’re in the right place!

 

While this unlicensed replica is intended for decorative purposes or for use as a cosplay prop, the main reason for building it is that someone enquired about it! The earlier Prototypes got abandoned halfway through the build, and the project had gone nowhere for years. So when someone reached out about it, I bumped it to the front of the queue and rode the people-pleaser part of my brain to a long overdue finished project!

 

Check out the link at the bottom of the page for the Overview if you want to see more, or if you prefer video, this build has a TikTok and YouTube playlist:

 

 


 

 

 

Build

 

 

The blade will be printed using basic PLA, printed on the work-horse printer, my Creality CR-10 Max. Meanwhile, the handle will be printed on my SLA Printer.

 

3D Printing part of King Bradleys Sword

 

 

I had several printing issues that caused more failed parts than usual. This was largely due to a lack of recent printing, and my printers just needed proper calibration. Once given a little maintenance, they all behaved properly, and all parts were printed cleanly.

 

Two images cast together, on the left a couple of failed prints from the blade, with the tips not printed properly, and on the right, the resin-printed handle failed half way through.

 

 

To reduce the sanding, I elected to use the SLA Printer (Creality LD-002H) for the handle. This did mean I needed to break the handle apart from the part that covers the bottom of the blade to get it to fit, though.

 

Wrath's Sword handle being printed in UV resin on an SLA printer

 

 

This is the other detached part. Easier to use the resin printer and reassemble physically later than spend even a single extra second sanding!

 

A small part of Wrath's Sword handle being printed in UV resin on an SLA printer

 

 

Once printed, the resin parts needed to be left under the UV Blacklight after washing to cure properly. A small turntable is also used to ensure consistent curing from most angles. I always love the images produced at this stage, they’re just plain cool and always will be. 

 

UV Printed handle curing under a blacklight atop a small spinning platform

 

 

This is not a terribly complex model ultimately, especially in comparison to something like Yone’s Azakana Blade, but I haven’t been making many finished models recently, so a simpler one is an ideal pursuit right now. Once printed, all parts and support rods were brought together before being worked on.

 

All 3d printed parts of King Bradley's sword laid out in no particular order, with the support rods included.

 

 

A loose fit-check is almost always a good idea when all the parts are printed, as it’s better to find problems sooner rather than later. They fit together nicely and landed well on the stand that the finished model will hopefully eventually sit on (ooooooh, foreshadowing!).

 

All printed parts loosely assembled and on display. Unfinished and ready to begin work

 

 

The two sections of the blade were glued in place on the support rods. There are always a lot of options when it comes to hiding the seams of the parts when you join them together: knifing putty, epoxy resin and 3D printing pens are all great options. Here, I elected to use talcum powder and super glue to quickly create a strong and workable seal between the two. Then the joyous sanding of the whole blade as one piece could begin.

 

Super glue and talcom powder (to fill in the seems) next to the two blade parts.

 

 

SLA Printed items do not require much sanding as PLA/ABS or other FDM materials due to the microscopic layer lines. This makes it ideal for something with a lot of angles that could be difficult to sand evenly. The only downside, as I mentioned earlier, is that the size of my printer limited me. I was forced to change the model to have the handle and blade guard separate. 

 

Handle and hilt about to be primed.

 

 

Getting some good progress as all the parts have been primed and are moving along nicely.

 

Blade and handle of Wraths Sword, both now primed.

 

 

A couple of holes were used with 4 mm wooden dowel to align both parts, and for added strength. Super glue was then used to secure the handle to the blade guard part as it is slightly absorbed by the wood and holds brilliantly.

 

Handle and bladeguard being fused together with a piece of wooden dowel and super glue.

 

 

Much like with the two parts of the blade, I opted for super glue and talcum powder to hide the seam between the two parts. Once the seal was solid and complete, it just took a little bit of sanding and a quick re-prime to have this ready for the Gloss Black. With all “Build” parts of the cycle complete, it was time to move on to the “Finish”!

 

Super glue and talcom powder used for filling in the seam

 

 

 

Finish

 

 

With the sanding, priming and assembly of the larger parts completed, it’s time to work on the Finish! Excluding a brown handle section, everything will have a metallic look to it. Anything with such a finish needs a specific next step: time for a few coats of basic gloss black.

 

Blade part getting the first coat of Gloss Black

 

 

With the blade part coated, it’s the handle’s turn to get the same treatment.

 

Handle getting it's first coat of Gloss Black.

 

 

In the past, when I’ve tried to get a metallic finish, I’ve usually used Alclad II Chrome, and it generally looks great! This time round, I have some Black Chrome from the same manufacturer (ALC-124) that I plan to give a try to. No requirement for varnish as this Alclad range is self-sealing.

 

Once applied a few times (very lightly!), the blade itself was complete. Once the handle is finished, it’s just assembling the two parts; so time to get that handle progressed!

 

Alclad 2 Black Chrome in front of the blade, ready for colour.

 

 

Sanding is the worst, you’ll hear no argument from me on that front, but I do also want to complain a little bit about masking, because that can have its own little slices of hell involved. Avoiding fingerprints while trying to carefully wrap certain parts in tape can be a bit of an art-form… one that I am not a master of! 

 

Frog tape next to the hande for King Bradleys Sword

 

 

I crudely applied the tape where it would not be brown (or if I thought it was out of risk), loaded up the airbrush with Vallejo Model Air Wood [71:077] and went to work. 

 

Frog tape on the hande for King Bradleys Sword with the wood paint close.

 

 

Once a few layers were applied, I gave it a Matt Varnish finish from Vallejo’s Mecha Series [27:702] for protection and a subtle finish.

 

Vallejo Mecha Matt Varnish in front of the handle, which has now brown on the grip

 

 

I complained about masking earlier, but peeling the tape off post colour and varnish is usually oddly satisfying. Once removed, I can check the quality of the seam and get ready for the gold to be applied.  

 

Frog tape being removed from the handle, which is brown and black.,

 

 

Now playing reversi with the Frog Tape, I do recommend leaning towards Frog Tape if you have the option. I’ve never had a single issue with paint bleed or adhesion problems that I’ve had with generic masking tape. The plan is to cover the coloured and varnished part with tape, leaving all the previously covered parts exposed. ¡Reversi!

 

Frog tape being applied to the brown handle part

 

 

Very nice, very smooth. It’s not easy to see in the image, however, but (and you’ll be shocked to learn, I am sure) the masking on the rest of the handle from earlier wasn’t really fit for purpose in places. Multiple places got a slight gracing of the wood colour… no bonus points for the lack of fingerprints if you get the wrong bloody paint on the item!

 

Before bringing the gold colouring into it, I’ll need to reapply the Gloss Black.

 

Frog tape on the handle part, ready for the gold.

 

 

The Frog Tape on the handle is barely visible, but the surface is ready for a few coats of gold! For once, I’m not using the colour shifting gold that I love to use, but rather a more grounded one. Vallejo again, from their Metal Colour series: Gold [77.725].

 

Vallejo gold on top of the Handle, which is currently all black.

 

 

Getting close! Once the gold has taken after a few coats, it’s time to protect the finish. Simple Clear Laquer is a great option here, ready after a couple of light coats.

 

King Bradleys Sword handle with it's gold colouring and clear laquer in front of it

 

 

After a few coats and enough time to cure, it was time to assemble the blade and the handle! Epoxy Resin is my preferred adhesive for this task, as it has a great balance of strength and workable time. A little bit into the recesses for the support rods, a little push together aaaaaaaand done! Wait, no, nearly done, one more step!

 

Epoxy Resin to bind the handle and the blade parts.

 

 

Just gotta- just gotta, with the tape…. okay now I’m done!!

 

Wraths sword handle having the frog (masking) tape removed)

 

 

Result

 

 

Although admittedly a rather basic sword in the grand scheme of things, I had a lot of fun making this. As I mentioned, I haven’t finished as many pieces recently, so it was great getting the focus to go back! I finished a loose end that really should have been tied off years back!

 

There weren’t any major surprises, maybe a line visible on the blade… And maybe the Black Chrome colour I used was more black than chrome than I was hoping. But whatever, this is a great finished piece!

 

King Bradley / Wrath's Sword finished model on a grey background.

 

King Bradley / Wrath's Sword finished model on a grey background.

 

A collage of King Bradley / Wrath's Sword finished model on a grey background.

 

A second collage of King Bradley / Wrath's Sword finished model on a grey background.

 

 

 


Thanks for reading!

 

If you enjoyed this, you might like some of the related articles from the Overview. Or perhaps a different Project altogether? 

 

Love what you saw? Got a project in mind? Feel free to reach out and let me know!

 

 

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